You can check out uuclearwater.org and find the link to Abhi’s blog–several people are posting to it as they have time, so it gives more perspectives. Today, going to a Unitarian school in Shillong to deliver many bags of school supplies that we have schlepped over many miles! Yesterday, services at 2 Unitarian churches. Peter Morales preached in one; Abhi Janamanchi preached in the other.
. . . or simply a heavenly head massage! We visited Abhi’s mother in Rajahmundry, and across the road was his barber who also gives head massages. I volunteered! He did the expected massage of temples, scalp, and neck, then started lightly pounding my head. Light became heavy as he really got a rhythm going. I thought about how strong skulls must be and figured my brain would benefit from a realignment! Mark Brandt took a video to share later.
Massage complete, the man picked up a spray bottle—I assumed to spray something on my hair—but it was my face! Cool sprays of water all over my face, then a soft towel dry. It was delightful. I was asking our tour guide how much to pay, thinking 100 rupees, but he said 20, then changed that to 30. So five minutes of bliss for less than a dollar. Namasté!
After an overnight train ride Tuesday in which I was lucky to be among 4 people in a 1st class cabin (most of the group was actually in 2nd class) we quickly de-boarded because the train just stops for a few minutes in Rajahmundry. Some of Abhi’s family members met the train to help with luggage and to get us to the hotel to freshen up. Porters carried 3-4 rolling suitcases on their heads and a smaller bag over each arm and we could barely keep up with them. Plus, they went up two flights of stairs and back down on the other side of the tracks to reach our rides.
The morning was relaxed; several of us lingered over breakfast to try to remember the chronology of the many temples and places we have visited. Then we took showers and got ready—for lunch! I tried the South India Thali, a traditional meal that claims to promote balance. At least the tray was balanced! Rice surrounded with small stainless steel cups of delicacies like vegetable curry and paneer. It was a great sampler—I tried some of everything though it was more than I could eat. Just after I announced that I must be balanced now, a cup of ice cream was delivered.
After lunch we visited Abhi’s cousin Krishna’s organic farm. We were greeted loudly by dalmatians from their enclosure. They would probably have loved to get at one of the chickens or turkeys! There were three calves, some cows, and some water buffalo. A three-week old calf was untied and jumped for joy—ran around friskily and also found its mother. The cowherd had to chase after the cow to get her back to the herd. The farm grows sugar cane and also has some coconut trees that produce water coconuts.
A worker with his machete and a rubber ring to hold him as he worked his way up a coconut tree, cut down a few for us. Then the tops were cut off until there was a small hole. A straw was inserted and each of us enjoyed refreshing coconut water. It is clear, and not strongly flavored like coconut, but it’s very good. We were served sweets made with cashews or dates. Delicious. So much good food on this trip!
The farm is right on the Godvari River. During last fall’s floods the river rose 50 feet! The farm was about 20 feet deep in water and sustained quite a bit of damage. The setting is absolutely beautiful and it was cool and breezy. Lovely hospitality.
(written Feb. 23, 2011)
Travel is a bit exhausting, especially when we have stayed in a different place four nights in a row. There have been wonderful hotels—Parisutham (means “very clean”) in Tanjore; Annamalai in Pondicherry, currently the Anand Regency in Rahahmundry. In fact, they are nice enough that we would love to stay longer! Tuesday night accommodations were on the overnight train from Chennai to Rajahmundry, after several day trips by bus.
Our bus driver and his assistant who drove us around in Chennai drove the bus to Madurai in time to meet us when we flew in. They have been excellent. The driver can make a 180-degree turn in Indian traffic–no small feat!
From now until we leave India, it looks like we’ll stay at least 2 nights in each place. Today we will meet at 9 to debrief, then go visit Abhi’s mother in her home briefly, then get to the airport for a 12:50pm flight to Hyderabad. Glad we’ll stay there longer!
Another frustration is Internet access. Each place is different; some have passwords, some have wireless, some have very slow or poor connections. I paid for 2 days in Chennai. Mainly, there’s just not enough time both to get connected and to scan email, FaceBook, and/or blog. This morning I have an extra hour because the bedside clock is incorrect—but the Internet is down……..
Then there’s the struggle with photos. I tried compressing one so it could be uploaded but that didn’t work. Next I’ll try to save them to our family website, but of course I have to be connected in order to do that.
Still . . . [Now there’s a good word—still. It has the “however” connotation and even more importantly, the “be here now” connotation. Be in the moment and in this place, this chair, this body, this spirit. I am in India for just 3 weeks and there will be time later to take care of all this busy-ness.Though I would love for everyone to know what’s happening currently, the stories and images are still good even after I get back. It’s a little like mailing postcards even though you will probably get home before they arrive.]
Still . . . I’m having a wonderful time. Travel is what it is and the benefits are enormous.
Still . . .
Breathe . . .
Smile . . .
India is a land of beauty, contradiction, and spirit. At least that’s my impression after a mere 4? days in Tamil Nadu, a state in southern India. About 82% of the people are Hindu; another 12% are Muslim; 3% Christian, and 3% “everything else.” A small cohort of Unitarian Universalists have been on a spiritual pilgrimage to a variety of fantastic temples and churches.
The Rev. Abhi Janamanchi (UU minister in Clearwater, FL) is the leader in a group of fourteen. His wife Lalitha, tour guide Radha Krishnan (“RK”), and others have done an terrific job of planning, logistics, coordination, etc. They are often on the phone to make sure the next place is ready, the next tickets are confirmed, or a particular person will be present upon our arrival. For the first couple of days we were not allowed into the interior sanctuary. Frustrated by this, Abhi began explaining the nature of this pilgrimage—that we are not run-of-the-mill tourists but are there for our own religious reasons.
Sunday night at a Shiva Temple evening pujas (blessings) took place in an amazing multi-sensory fashion. They make Catholics look like pikers and they make my words totally inadequate to convey the experience.. Immediately upon entering the Temple our ears were assaulted with the clanging of bells, large and small, filling the granite space with deafening sound. Our group joined a throng of people watching as the priests performed the nightly blessings and rituals to prepare the dancing Shiva for the night. (Do deities sleep?)
Symbolic objects were displayed, fire blazed from multiple containers, chants and prayers were said, flowers and herbs were offered. There were several moments of silence then the bells would resume. As a non-Hindu I was both fascinated and mystified. Toward the end, a group of monks pressed into the crowd and we were gently pressed on all sides, adding additional tactile and olfactory sensations. That part ended and the bells were silenced.
After animated conversations between our leaders and temple “gatekeepers,” for lack of a proper term, permission was gained for us to enter the inner sanctum to receive special blessings. Men had to take off their shirts; one of the tour guides and two of our group did so. It is obvious who are the Hindus, with their sacred threads around their left shoulders. Women were allowed (fully clothed, of course.)
We got a closer look at the dancing Shiva and the priestly rituals using symbolic objects like a flag, a sword, and a mirror, and fire. I estimated at least 50 flames—tiers of 15-20 oil lamps hung on each side; larger fires closer to Shiva and the priests. Need I mention it was hot? Sweat was pouring down our bodies. (Taking my shirt off would have been lovely if rather ineffective!)
Several of our group left and I was on my way out when RK brought me back because the priests were about to do a special puja for our group. My colleague Justin Osterman (minister in Devon, PA) also came back. He and I stood by a railing on one side of the aisle.
Trays of offerings like coconut and flowers were brought by, along with trays of fire. We had learned enough to hold our hands over the flame then draw our cupped hands toward ourselves 3 times. Prayers were offered for the group. A priest came to us individually, asked our name, and recited a blessing for each of us. Then we made our way back to the main temple. Again Justin and I were called around to the front where the priest marked our foreheads with red powder and gave us a packet of the powder and a sprig of herb for longevity. Justin was especially urged to stay or to come back and look for this priest. We felt very blessed; we made a special donation (that’s how they survive) and went back to the group.
Our attention was gained once more as the priest came to us with long garlands taken from the neck of dancing Shiva. He ceremoniously placed them over our heads with more blessings. It was like an ordination. What an extraordinary moment! Before we left the Temple altogether, Abhi took a picture of the two of us in front of a statue of Durga. I’ll post it when he sends it to us.
[Note: the whole evening can be interpreted as an elaborate shill—we look intrigued, we receive special attention, we give donation, we get even greater blessings. What an effective stewardship program, with plenty of follow-through!]
But the blessings were real; the feelings were overwhelming; I am still taking it in some ten hours later, after a 2-hour bumpy bus ride and some sleep and a new day dawning. Outside the temple, Abhi negotiated for a small dancing Shiva for me (and others in the group) for just 200 rupees (about $4). He is no ordinary souvenir. He is a reminder of an amazing sensory immersion.
Everyone and our luggage arrived safely, most of us between midnight and 4am. Touring starts this morning at 10. We are 12.5 hours ahead of Central Time so it’s pretty easy to keep track.
Yep, the driving is adventurous here! Stop lights and white lane dividers seem to be “suggestions” for drivers. And that was in the wee hours.
Pride Hotel is very nice. The lights don’t work unless you put your room key in a slot on the wall. Very clever! They don’t work at all this morning–maybe we don’t get juice during certain hours. Don’t know…
Chocolates and a sweet card (in Spanish) were waiting for me on this beautiful Valentine’s Day. Jon and I will enjoy a special lunch today; our next chance will be well into March!
My bags are packed (and repacked) for tomorrow morning’s departure toward Chennai! Reading the Lonely Planet travel guide was a real help: There was a link to travel tips especially for women. You can get information about countries all over the world. Based on those tips, I changed out some of the clothes to take with me. Check out http://www.journeywoman.com
The trip to Chennai via Washington Dulles and Frankfurt will take about 25 hours of travel time each way, plus trips to and from airports and getting through security and customs. India is 13.5 hours ahead of Central Time. [Gee–I’ll just be 1.5 hours behind son Rob in Japan!] Other websites of note: http:/www.incredibleindia.org and http://www.mapsofindia.com.
Just a little bit of business today–trips to the bank and the grocery store and I’ll be nearly ready. In a way, the shorter my list gets, the more room there is for anxiety to fill in the gaps.
But it’s Valentine’s Day! A time for special attention to love in all its forms. We are sisters and brothers who share SO much in common. Love your neighbor, everyone! My neighborhood will soon get a lot bigger, halfway around the world. I’m expecting to see, hear, taste, smell, touch, and sense an entirely different world view. I send neighborly love to all of you–no matter where you live! What will you do today to show a little love?
CENTER Institute, the first large scale continuing education conference for Unitarian Universalist clergy, took place last week in Pacific Grove, CA. Nearly 400 of us gathered at the Asilomar Conference Center for five days of learning, worshiping, and walking on the beach. Food was great; collegiality was even greater!
Dr. Ysaye Barnwell, founding member and lead songwriter of the a cappella group Sweet Honey in the Rock, offered her seminar on Building the Vocal Community. She writes and sings songs with a purpose: inspiring us to listen to the sounds of nature; assuring us that freedom will unfold in time; filling us with the holy spirit! (Go to http://www.sweethoney.com/ for more info.)
As a long-time fan of Sweet Honey in the Rock, I was eager to attend Ysaye’s seminar, work she has done for 27 years, about 8-10 times per year. She knows a LOT of African-American music history along with the songs. About 40 ministerial colleagues formed a double circle as we sang chants, spirituals, gospel, and justice songs. The circle was for community. Ysaye taught the songs, yes, but we looked into each others’ faces and sang our harmonies with a lot of heart.
The first chant became an intricate blend of several phrases. We chose one line, learned its rhythm and repeated it until all of the text worked together rhythmically: 1) Go down into the market. 2) Mama! 3) I won’t go down to the market, Mama! 4) I just came from the market, Mama, go down! When we added movement and walked around to greet one another, the sound and rhythm grew in intensity. Fantastic!
One side benefit is that the “Barnwellians” were asked to sing at several worship services during the Institute. One song evoked the sound of God, from a tribe that understands that the Rain Forest is God. Another repeated lines that mean, “The works of God can never be destroyed.”
We also sang, in English,
“Tell all my friends that my ship just came sailing in.
It was filled with the Holy Spirit, it was filled with joy divine,
Wouldn’t you like to sail on a ship like mine?”
We learned about quadlibets, in which several related songs are sung in succession or simultaneously—like a modern-day musical mashup. One pure joy was singing along with Ysaye for about 30 minutes as she sang one Civil Rights song after another. We joined in as we learned the tunes.
I plan to bring several of these songs back to Live Oak Church, possibly with the help of Ysaye Barnwell’s instructional CDs, Singing in the African-American Tradition and/or Building the Vocal Community.
Afternoon meditation sits on the edge of life and death. Layer upon layer unfold before me as I hear and see and feel power beyond imagining. Waves crash against rocks, sweep sand and castle and footprint and crab, then deposit new treasures on this shore.
It is our shore, Asilomar State Beach in California that draws us the living–human, dog, gull, and fly–to greet the dead–rock, sand, shell, seaweed. But none of it is dead. Slowly but continually transformation changes everything. There is no choice. Only this moment to breathe … in awe.
I am so gratified that I attended the Clergy Wellbeing seminar in Santa Barbara, CA. The retreat setting is lovely–La Casa de Maria. The 26 acres were once Indian land, of course, then became a ranch, then was turned over or sold to the Catholic Church for a novitiate, where young women prepared to become nuns. However, some time or other, the women got a bit uppity–they wanted to ditch the habits, for one thing. The Bishop said No way, and the women said, OK, we resign!
It became a retreat center. There are still religious statues and iconography like Mary, angels, and stations of the cross, but it is open to people of all faiths. There was a monastery on site until it burned a couple of years ago. No one was hurt, but the building was a loss. There are both a large chapel and also a small meditation chapel. The smaller chapel was donated by a Dutch family. Its focal point is a large circle of light on the back wall, bisected by a vertical line and a horizontal line, also of light. In the dark space, the image is striking. I had no desire to turn on the room light.
For the seminar, Larry Peers facilitated about 30 clergy of multiple faith traditions in a very interactive process of identifying our lives as they are, how we would like for them to be, and specific changes (however small) to shift in that direction. The participants often became the teachers, when they shared their stories and Larry asked questions to help them figure out new directions. We were Unitarian Universalist, United Methodist, Lutheran, Episcoplalian, Ukranian Orthodox, Religious Scientist, and seminary professor, all as equals. We made lasting connections.
I’m very glad I attended. It exceeded my expectations and has given me a lot of food for thought!
KaleidoscopE 